Beijing trip

After 3 weeks in Shanghai doing nothing thinking about my future, I decided to go for some tourism in Beijing. Out of contempt for organized tours that are very popular in Asia, I decided I wouldn't plan anything. The result was what my brother described as an episode of the amazing race.

It started with a ride in the night train, whose tickets you can conveniently reserve on the day of departure. In fact, the strange thing is that in China, you can not take tickets more than three days in advance. Apparently, these are measures against black market. I found myself praising the French system - that's a sign how bad things are.

Once you manage to push through the teeming mass of Chinese people scurrying to get into the train for which they have reserved places, and that you settle in your bunk - things are pretty good. All the Asian clichés are of course fulfilled: slippers are provided and technology is all around you.

Not my size, though

Everybody get their own personal TVs, which just display the same things over and over again.

Plenty of room

After a night where I could get some sleep in spite of the constant screaming of people around me, I reached Beijing at 8am, under a pouring rain. My intent was to crash into a Starbucks, have a Western breakfast and make a simili-plan for the day. Unlike Shanghai, Beijing seems to have no Starbucks in its city center. I guess triumphant communism couldn't accommodate with this symbol of capitalist imperialism. There were, however, 3 McDonald's and 2 KFCs just in front of the station. The west is slowly creeping in.

First look at the city: it's trying to impress: big avenues (tanks need space) and tall buildings with long names: The monument to the people's heroes, the people's house of workers, the people's house for justice and puppies... you name it.

Against my better judgment, I decided to walk the distance to Tien An Men Square (where nothing happened in 1989) which was barely 2 metro stations away. Big mistake: the distances are really huge and it took me an hour, under a pouring rain, to get there.

Tien An Men square, where nothing happened. Ever.

Beijing loves its barriers. Whenever you want to cross a road, they're standing in your way. Sometimes, you can find some underground passages, some times you just can't. Pushed by the rain, I proceeded with a visit of the forbidden city.

The entrance to the forbidden city, symbol of the emperors' might. Mao thought his portrait would look good there.

The forbidden city is huge and commoners were barred from entering it. Trespassers were to be shot executed immediately. In effect, the malfunctioning audio guide said, the place was so wide and full of riches that emperors rarely ventured outside to witness the misery of their own people. I won't write a full guide to the place. I liked the place for its historical aspects. At the same time I hate it for its lavish display of riches geared towards a single person. Versailles does that to me as well. Here are some pictures to demonstrate if need be that you can both be a murderous megalomaniac and have great taste.

Behind the forbidden city stands a hill from which you can take a look at Beijing. Fairly expensive for a short climb - that is no Fuji - yet the view over the city is amazing.

Also, there were statues of dinosaurs. That concludes a first day of visits, and I spent the evening with Na and her husband. It was nice seeing her after 8 years since Centrale, and she hasn't changed. Memory doesn't always lie, after all.

On the second day, I went to the great wall. There are lots of tours that will cost an arm and a leg, however my brother that was doing 2nd line support from Shanghai found me a normal bus, number 919, for only 12 yuans in each direction. It's pretty popular among the Chinese. I found a first bus stop, which was actually a fraud and while I was waiting the police came to take it down. The real one was further away and took me to Badaling efficiently.

View from the top

An outpost on the other side of the wall

The wall was overcrowded and propaganda was spewing out. Chinese people kept taking pictures of me. To make it even more interesting for them, I donned the Keffiyeh that I got in Jordan. It made a sensation.

Back to Beijing, I visited the lama temple. Which I consider the nicest visit of my trip. Unfortunately I arrived in a bit late and didn't have much time for exploration.

On the last day, I visited the temple of heaven, which is where the emperors would go each year to pray heaven for good yields and forgiveness for the sins of the people. Impressive, symbol-laden architecture. 

The hall of prayers

That white path was reserved for the emperor.

There was many more things to see, unfortunately I ran out of time. Beijing is a huge city where the weight of the Chinese government can be felt much more than in Shanghai. This was  unnerving. The historical aspects, however, make it a must-see place.